Seoul Baby #1

And now for the moment you've all been waiting for: We are pleased to announce that Seoul Baby #1 is scheduled to make his/her international debut in late August. This marks the first time in either of our families that a child has been born this far away from our home state.


Although there has been some discussion as to whether or not mother and baby will make the 15-hour trek back to the U.S. so that baby can be born on American soil, we've decided that Korean soil is just as good -- and has definitely proven itself to be fertile enough for this little family to grow.

Seoul Baby #1 will join a highly diverse pool of "new recruits" arriving this summer at the acclaimed Yongsan Garrison in Seoul, South Korea.

Stay tuned for up to due date information about our little Seoul Man or Seoul Sista.

Live from Seoul it's Saturday Night!

So this post is a little late, but should prove to be a pretty interesting one, if I do say so myself. Last weekend, my adventures in Seoul took me to the ultra-modern Blue Square Theatre to see Mama Mia! for the first time. As a theatre nerd, I am ashamed to say that I've never seen the show before; however, that didn't keep me from jamming along to all the ABBA songs and dancing with the gal-pals during the curtain call.

It was a fantastic show (in English with Korean subtitles) with everything that I've come to expect from living in Seoul. There were bright lights, loud music, flashy costumes, and of course a completely foreign cast (and by foreign I mean British -- I told you this place was totally international), which never seems to matter much here as long as the subtitle screens are working properly. The predominantly Korean audience packed the intimate theatre interior dressed to the 9's in their evening wear and my two companions and I fit right in...you know, except for being American and all.

We laughed, we sang, and after the show we went out into the crisp night air in search of a late dinner. No problem, we thought, in a city that seems to be quite lively after dark. To our dismay, many restaurants close their kitchens around 9:30 pm and only the bars are open after that. I'll begin by saying that explains a lot considering how many extremely drunk people I've seen wandering, staggering, falling, and puking about the streets, and finish by saying THAT'S INSANE!!! While I'm sure that clearing the tables of everything but glasses drives liquor and beer sales, clearly these people need food to soak up the alcohol.

As my tummy grumbled and curfew for the mommies with me grew close, we finally found a cute Spanish tapas restaurant that was still serving food and sat down in a cozy corner of the restaurant. We raved about the show, started to make plans to see another, laughed and talked about life, thoroughly enjoyed our food, then departed.

We had a wonderful Saturday night in Seoul. Maybe next time we'll even bring the hubbies along...maybe.

Seoul In Love

Recently, I read an article that discussed the challenges many expats experience when repatriating. It got me thinking about what my own experience here has been like and how I will feel when we finally return to the states. Seoul definitely isn't perfect, but of all the places we could have started this adventure, it has got to be one of the best. It also made me think about my current apprehension concerning even visiting the US during our time here.

South Korea in general has a lot to offer and Seoul is very unique in that they have a significant international population. Because of my job, I've met instructors from Canada, France, Scotland, and South Africa; and students from Brazil, Japan, and Poland, as well as many other students who've had the opportunity to travel to endless places abroad. Most any ethnic group you can think of is represented here, so you're bound to hear German, Russian, Spanish, Thai, Tagalog and various other languages in the streets giving the city a very familiar feeling especially to someone from Chicago.

The difference, however, between here and most of the major cities in the US is the safety. Crime happens everywhere, but certain crimes seem to happen less often here. As a former, avid CTA rider in Chicago, I lost track of how many times I heard about people being robbed on trains, saw people selling illegal substances at train stations, and just generally felt unsafe in my surroundings. My biggest fear here is getting squished to death during rush hour! I say that only somewhat jokingly. The reality is that I often used to wander out of work after working a ten-hour shift, hop on the red line completely exhausted, and promptly fall asleep knowing that I couldn't miss my stop because it was at the end of the line. I never felt asleep enough to where I wouldn't realize that someone was stealing my purse or shoes, but every once in a while a kind voice would strongly suggest that I at least try to keep my eyes open for my own safety.

Here, everyone falls asleep on the train. If I had a dollar for every time I saw someone tucked into their coat on an early morning train or with their head cocked back, mouth wide open on an evening train, I could retire tomorrow. Men and women alike are guilty of this behavior. It's so common that the stranger sitting right next to you will frequently doze off and nod right onto your shoulder; and partly because of space and partly because of commonness, you just allow them to have their rest until you have to get up to leave.

That is merely one example of the safety factor which appears to permeate the entire city. The streets are also typically very clean and safe, I've never heard a gunshot, most of the police carry pepper spray instead of a firearm, and safety drills and videos are a regular part of life due to the constant threat of North Korea.

Leaving here means giving up the life I've become comfortable living; and even taking a trip to the US means readjusting to the way things were and the things I don't miss about living there. It means going back to a culture that seems to have little value for the lives and safety of others. At the least, it means walking into a store or restaurant without being greeted by a gaggle of friendly voices, shopping without negotiating a fair price, leaving a store without being thanked with a kind word, a smile and a bow, or feeling obligated to tip the unpleasant waiter in a restaurant because you know that part of their attitude problem comes from being grossly underpaid.

The article made me think of one of my favorite songs from Wicked...
It well may be
That we will never meet again
In this lifetime
So let me say before we part
So much of me
Is made of what I learned from you
You'll be with me
Like a handprint on my heart
And now whatever way our stories end
I know you have re-written mine
By being my friend...

I've learned that people can be inherently good and helpful and that a sense of family, community, and belonging is still alive in other countries. Living here has given me a perspective I otherwise never would have had.

Of course, I'll leave when the time comes, but I really think I'm going to miss the friend I've made in Seoul.

Kimbap and Kimchi

Say what you want to about my new life here, but make sure you mention all the food! I feel as though many of my friends and most of my family members who have never been to Korea think that I live in a third-world country where I don't have access to basic necessities. I have to put that myth to rest and assure you all that Seoul is far from being a place that has little; it fact, it is a place that has everything!

It is true that many expats complain about the prices of most of the food in the grocery stores here because just about everything is imported. However, having base privileges allows me to purchase everything I need to cook my usual fabulous meals from this magical place called the commissary. The prices there are extremely reasonable and they carry imported and domestic items. So, if I want homemade lasagna like I did last week, I simply pick up the ingredients and fire up our easy-bake oven (appropriately named because it is the smallest oven I've ever had the pleasure of cooking in).

Recently, my interests have turned to chamchi (tuna) kimbap. This local delicacy is ideal at any time of the day. I often depend on it in the morning when I'm running from one class to the next. Many food vendors sell it right on the street...and yes, it's safe. Kimbap is also cheap and can be very tasty depending on what's in it. The roll is very similar to a Japanese maki roll and can contain a variety of ingredients including spinach, egg, tuna, ham, crab stick, pickled radish, and carrot. It's basically the Korean version of a breakfast burrito and for about a dollar, I can get one roll which will stave off hunger pains until just about lunch time. For an added treat, sometimes I bring a banana or drink a cup of coffee or red ginseng tea (another delicacy here which claims to cure cancer among other health benefits).

The only thing I have yet to get used to is kimchi. With the exception of a yummy kimchi pancake that the hubby introduced me to one night, I have not been able to get used to eating kimchi with every meal. According to the locals, it aids in digestion. Yeah, that's great! but I still know I'm eating spicy, fermented cabbage and nothing can stop me from tasting that. Perhaps one day it will grow on me.

Until then, kimbap yes! kimchi no!

Neo Seoul

Thing are changing rapidly here in Seoul...and I don't just mean the things in our area; although, that is a big part of what's changing. As with any big city, the vibe is anything but mellow and, if you're not careful, it's easy to get swept up in the hustle and bustle. In just the past few weeks, I've started working, the weather has changed dramatically, and new places have popped up all around us.

I love working, probably more than the average person and I'm not ashamed to admit it. While some would complain about the schedule I'm currently on, which includes split shifts and alternating weekends, I'm thrilled to be teaching again and thoroughly enjoy the opportunity to work with like-minded adults who seem to genuinely enjoy being here as much as I do. My students are eager to learn as was made very evident last Thursday when I ended class a mere five minutes early to ask if they had any questions regarding the lesson. Instead of saying "no" and running from the room in utter exultation, they sat and asked me what I was doing over the weekend. Of course there's no way I would admit that my teaching homies and I were going out for beer and beef, but it was nice that they cared enough to ask considering they know that I'm relatively new here; and, of course they were speaking English!! which is the point of the class. I told them that I was going to try some Korean food and maybe visit a local art gallery, then asked them for other suggestions or recommendations. It was great!

Dinner and beer with the teaching homies was actually a scheduled welcome party for some of the other new hires and me. There was definitely lots of beer and more beef than I'll probably ever admit to eating or watching someone else eat. I think we all justified it by saying that it was the end of the week and the beef was wrapped in a leaf (the traditional way to eat Korean barbecue) so it made the whole thing acceptable. I managed to maintain my composure in spite of my exhaustion after having just left work a mere thirty minutes or so before we started eating and I excused myself at a relatively reasonable hour so that I could get in at least five hours of rest before working again on Saturday.

Needless to say, Saturday night and Sunday were a complete wash because I spent them totally comatose on the couch...like so knocked out that my husband had to carry me to bed (beef and beer will do that to a body). So, we were unable to enjoy the new fall temperatures. Fall in Seoul is apparently rather pleasant; not too cold, not too hot and most importantly, the humidity is gone (yay!). The evil mosquitoes have almost all died, but those that remain are straight kamikaze. Those evil, bloodsucking little devils must know that they're on their way out so they're going for it with gusto. Somehow, I managed to get six new bites on my face and neck about a week ago after I thought I could outsmart them by pulling my covers up as close to my eyeballs as I could without suffocating myself in my sleep. I lost. They won.

The cooler temperatures have also caused a few new businesses in the area to pop up and rush to be ready to open before it gets really cold. At the bottom of our hill alone, there is one new restaurant and another shop that barely has two functioning doors right now. The rest of the place is empty, but the workers are in there every day doing something else to get it ready. The hubby and I are taking bets as to what it will be. I think it's going to be some sort of gamer cafe, and while he's excited by the idea of that being true, he's not convinced. Considering how many coffee shops and convenience stores
there are concentrated on that one corner, I really hope it's not another one of those.

So far, my impression of Seoul is that it is constantly growing and creating it's own unique identity. It is definitely far different than any other place that I've ever lived. I don't think we could have picked a better country to live in for our first time living abroad. It's pretty easy to see why the army calls this "The Assignment of Choice;" there's always something new to see and do in Seoul.  

Seoul-less

Wow! what a vacation...I mean business trip. Due to government regulations, the company I will be working for here in South Korea sent me to Guam to obtain my teaching visa. For whatever reason, Korea has this thing about having to return to your country of origin if you're hired here and since Guam is the closest U.S. territory, I was forced to spend two days on the beach while they processed the paperwork for my visa at the Korean consulate. It was money and time well spent.

First of all, I had never even thought about going to Guam ever in life; not because I didn't want to, but because I didn't know anything about it. Now that I know, I plan to make that trip at least one more time. This adorable island reminded me a lot of Jamaica with its friendly people, warm weather, and relaxing atmosphere. The tranquility was a welcome change from the noise and congestion of Seoul. Lately, the sounds of the city have interrupted much needed sleep and the traffic, both vehicle and pedestrian, has caused a significant amount of angst and irritation.  

My trip started with a leisurely train ride to the Incheon airport, which much like the Blue Line in Chicago, takes you right beneath this massive, international hub, but unlike the Blue Line, is clean and safe. Upon checking in for my flight, the sweet and accommodating clerk at the Korean Air counter asked me if I wouldn't mind sitting in business class...uh duh, of course I don't mind getting bumped up from coach for free!

What a way to start my trip! First of all, I'm pretty sure I've never been on a plane that had an upstairs and, if it did, I definitely wasn't privileged enough to sit in the upstairs area. It is an understatement to say that it was truly a treat to experience this kind of luxury. Business class on Korean Air consists of seats that recline all the way flat to a bed for maximum comfort during the flight, wine, dinner, ice cream, and more. To make things even better, I was seated in an exit row, so I had even more leg room and the seat next to me was empty. The only down side to the flight was a gentleman behind me who decided to take his shoes off; needless to say, I smelled the issue before I saw it.

I arrived at the hotel in the wee hours of the morning and settled in. What the hotel lacked in room aesthetics, it more than made up for in service and scenery. After sleeping for a few hours, I went downstairs to grab a bite to eat before heading to the Korean consulate. My complimentary breakfast was served in the hotel's only bar and grille, which was ideally located on the beach with a spectacular view of the private island just off shore, para-sailing, jet-skiing, and the evening crab races on the sand. Okay, so the crab races weren't exactly planned entertainment, but for me it's the little things that make a difference; and if Mother Nature saw fit to wake the little crabbies around dinner time so I had something to watch while I ate alone so I didn't feel so alone, then I took notice and was grateful.

Day two was much the same as day one in that there was sun, swimming, drinking and eating, but there was also the knowledge that this was my last day there. After spending the morning and early afternoon doing what I wanted to do, I made my way back to the consulate to pick up my passport with its shiny, new visa plastered inside. I was in and out and back at the bar for a late lunch (and margaritas) in no time. Apparently, margarita number two was slightly more potent than number one and I soon found myself asleep in my room (clearly I'm getting old and can't hold my liquor like I used to). I slept through dinner and spent the rest of the evening catching a few more episodes of SVU and CSI (totally appreciative of the opportunity to watch American television and not have to suffer through cheesy Korean commercials), checked out, and went back to the airport.

As I ended my Seoul-less days in paradise, I thought to myself, as cliche as it sounds, "home really is where the heart is and Seoul has really become home; and while I enjoyed my little vacation/business trip, it'll be nice to get back to my husband and my friends." Anyone can take issue with some of the not so great things about where they live, but there is definitely something in finding enough good there to miss it when you're gone. What's more, is the fact that the people here are what I missed most. Hopefully, the next time I go on such a wonderful adventure, I'll be able to take my heart(s) with me.

Earning My Seoul Patch: Part Dul (that's two in Korean!)

Our life here is almost complete. In the last couple of months, we've received our express shipment (which took a month to get here) and now the car! I successfully passed the driver's exam just in time to welcome the car to Korea and give it its first taste of Korean road. Of course with that comes Korean traffic; but, I digress. The last part of the puzzle is the "slow" shipment, which we knew would take at least two to three months to get here, and so it has.

While I was waiting for our stuff to catch up with my busy life here, I decided to get a few things done. And by a few things, I mean tons of paperwork. Nothing around here gets done without printed copies of orders, forms, powers of attorney, etc. Once you think you've filled out all the forms you need and think you have everything to do what you need to do, you sit, wait, and then fill out more forms. If I hadn't gotten used to signing my new last name before I got here, I've definitely gotten a ton of practice in by now. At this point, I just kind of make a game out of it in order to get through without pulling out my hair. It's becoming rather amusing to organize things into a perfect pile and then yell "BAM!!" and slam it down in front of the person requesting it as they ask for each piece; plus it keeps them awake. Other times, I wait until they shake their heads at me like something is missing and then I slowly pull the form out of my folder and say, "oh, oh, wait for it...wait for it...HA!! I've got that too. What else do you need?"

The most comical activity was actually trying to get my driver's license. The process included studying Korean road signs and rules of the road (all of which they break), working myself up over passing the exam, passing the exam and realizing that it w

as much easier than I thought it was going to be, and then laughing hysterically at the mandatory safety videos that followed. I suppose, in retrospect, the videos could have been useful for military personnel who are expected to drive large vehicles outside of the city or anyone who hasn't ever driven in a Michigan or Chicago winter, but this gal has seen and driven in just about everything. Bring it on!

I talk a big game right now, but the truth is that as soon as I picked up the car and hit the road, I made a beeline straight for post, gassed her up, and parked her. Truly, with the way I've seen both Koreans and Americans alike drive around here, I have no intentions of risking life, limb, and paid-off car by venturing off post. I'll just settle for being proud of myself for being legally allowed to drive around here and I'll anxiously await another major Korean holiday where the city looks like it's experiencing a mass exodus and the streets are nearly empty.