Seoul-long, Farewell...

The time has come to leave this beautiful land and move on to the next phase of this adventure I call my life. I'm nervous, I'm excited, and I'm really going to miss being in Korea. As I reflect back on the last two years, I realize that living here may have a lasting effect on who I am as a person and a parent.

South Korea is not without its problems. In many ways, it still feels like a very young country that has a lot to learn about how to get along with others, how to be warm and welcoming of outsiders, and how to be inclusive and tolerant of people who don't necessarily fit into this homogeneous society. Generally, I felt safe and comfortable walking down the streets of Seoul, taking taxis and other public transportation at all hours of the day and night. But, as a foreigner, I was acutely aware of my otherness and often shied away from clothing and shoe stores, not so much because of the language barrier, but rather the size difference. 

Koreans come in all shapes and sizes, but the overall sentiment seems to be that Americans are large people who don't always fit into Korean clothing. For most of my time here, I was pregnant and therefore I really couldn't wear most items I came across at Korean boutiques. However, following my pregnancy, I've worked pretty hard to get back into shape and I'm pretty proud of my progress. Unfortunately for me, a shopkeeper at a store I recently visited affirmed my reservations about trying on clothes here when I expressed interest in a dress. She quickly sized me up and declared that the dress was too small even before I had the chance to try it on. Thankfully, my husband has been very supportive of my post-pregnancy transformation. He quickly suggested that I try the dress on anyway and bought it for me on the spot upon seeing that it did, in fact, fit perfectly fine. 

In short, what didn't kill my confidence has made me stronger. I simply realized that bluntness is a part of Korean culture and being told that you look tired, or sick, or fat is more of an expression of concern for one's 'condition' than it is a put down. 

As a parent, I've had the unique opportunity to not only give birth to my child in a country that values motherhood and provides paid maternity leave, but also begin my journey as the mother of a little black boy outside of a country that seems to lack concern for the lives of its black children. This experience has made me think long and hard about raising Seoul Brother #1 or any child/children that may follow within the confines of such a hostile environment. While one would think that living in a place that is still technically at war would feel more dangerous than living in the 'Land of the Free and Home of the Brave,' something about watching things happen from the outside of the burning house looking in at the people complaining about it getting warm in there makes me want to wait until the dust settles and things get rebuilt from the ground up. 

Therefore, it is with some level of reluctance that I return to a place where guns are legal, healthcare isn't free, mothers return to work often days or weeks after giving birth because they can't afford to stay at home, and blacks are shot dead in the streets by the people sworn to protect them. The lesson there: the USA is pretty good at defending and protecting the rights and liberties of other people (i.e. the ROK), but not so good about taking care of its own people. Something is fundamentally wrong with the idea of living in a city within missile range of a sworn enemy and never questioning my safety or the freedoms I've given up by not living in my country of origin, but worrying about returning to said country of origin and feeling as though my very existence will constantly be threatened. 

It is, though, with an open mind, a new appreciation for the hard working military members, their spouses, and families, and a new perspective on the world that I head back to the States...for now. 

I bid my beloved Seoul a fond farewell   (Ahn-hee-kay-say-oh!)

  

Seoul Searching

Seoul Brotha #1 just turned three months old, so that means it's just about time for me to go back to work. As I reflect on my maternity leave, I realize that I've probably broken just about every mommy rule in the book. I feel somewhat guilty for some of the faux pas, but mostly like kind of a rebel. I guess I just wouldn't be me if I went completely by the book, so in the interest of maintaining some of myself during this life-changing experience, I'm doing it my way.

Rule #1: Back is best - In my defense, the rule used to be in favor of baby sleeping on his or her tummy so that just in case he or she vomited, they wouldn't aspirate on it. Made sense to our parents, I always did it when I babysat back in the day, and all of us are still alive. This is a great rule unless baby doesn't actually like sleeping on his back, which mine doesn't. I've tried to follow this rule, but honestly I wouldn't be able to write this post right now if I had put the little guy down for a nap on his back; he'd wake up, freak out, and I'd end up holding him to get him to sleep for more than 10-minutes at a time, which of course they tell you not to do.

Rule #2: Don't hold the baby all day - Well duh! at some point you're going to have to pee or hopefully take a shower or something else that requires you to put the baby down. In spite of the fact that I think that he's just the cutest little thing and I love cuddling with him, I can't get a whole lot of anything done if I'm holding him. But, I have to admit that I kinda break this rule. If he's not doing tummy time or playing on his back on his play mat, he's probably in my arms. I've compromised a bit on this and ordered a Boba wrap, so that I at least have my hands free, but again, he can only stand being on his back for so long, tummy time leads to nap time, and he can't sit up on his own yet, so he spends a lot of time being held. Yes, this includes while he's sleeping.

Rule #3: Don't let the baby sleep in your arms - If he gets too fussy, usually because of gas, I pat his back until it passes and he falls asleep. To the creator of this rule and all the science behind crying it out and comforting them and then putting them back down, I have one question...have you ever had a baby? This child can scream (and I've timed him) for a full hour without ceasing! Picking him up to quiet him and then putting him back down just serves to further aggravate him and if I try to put him down after he's fallen asleep, 9 times out of 10 he wakes up again and starts screaming. It's a vicious cycle that's easily avoided by simply finding a safe, comfortable place for us both to fall asleep with him in my arms or on my chest.

Rule #4: No co-sleeping - I understand that there are some very large people out there who have rolled over on their children and suffocated them, or people who can't afford a bed big enough for more than one person, but neither of those things apply to me. Most of the time, he sleeps nearby in a bassinet-like thing (if I can get him to sleep on his back) but other times, in the early morning when I'm about to get up anyway, I pull him into bed with me to catch another hour or so. Honestly, after doing this for a little while, I can't figure out how you could smother your child and not know it, but I guess that's your story and you're sticking to it.

Rule #5: Don't let the baby fall asleep while breastfeeding - Really?!? please tell me how to keep him awake while cuddled up snug and warm against my stomach with a milky boob in his mouth. I certainly don't want to sit there in a cold room with my tit out just to keep him awake. Taking his sock off to keep him cool only makes him mad. Rubbing his cheek to keep him sucking just makes him smile in his sleep, which is cute but not effective, and trying to get him to unlatch has nearly caused the loss of my nipple on more than one occasion. So guess what...we break that rule too.

There are tons of other Do's and Don'ts when it comes to taking care of an infant and I've definitely set aside more time than I ever thought I would reading about what I should or shouldn't be doing. In the end, I think it all comes down to common sense, trial and error. You have to do what's right for you and your baby, listen to the advice you think is good, and ignore anything you think is bad.

My advice: Don't down a bottle of wine, breastfeed, and fall asleep with your baby on his stomach, in your arms, or in your bed and I think he or she should make it to his or her first birthday.

Seoul Brother #1

Hello friends! Let me begin by apologizing for not blogging at all throughout my pregnancy, but I guess this post is better late than never. Overall, those nine months were uneventful. I didn't have the dreaded morning sickness, I traveled to Hong Kong, Japan, and Jeju Island without much incident, and I worked up until the day I went into labor; literally going to the hospital from work when the cramping and bleeding started. Due to a significant interest in some of the more gory details of labor, delivery, and the postpartum experience, I've decided to share some of the things that your mom and most of the pregnancy books don't tell you. As one friend so eloquently put it, it's not all "rainbows and glitter".

Here are a few fun facts and suggestions on how to make things a little more tolerable starting with the last month of pregnancy:

1. Swelling happens: as if being 20-50 pounds over your regular weight isn't bad enough, there's the swelling. Your feet, ankles, hands, and any other body parts that haven't already expanded significantly will probably swell up. Those beautiful wedding bands that you love so much will no longer fit your fat fingers and be thankful for the fact that you can't reach or see your feet because you won't be able to recognize those cute, pedicured piggies anyway.

• Suggestion: In spite of how difficult it is to reach your feet, try your best to wear lace-up shoes even if it means employing the assistance of your significant other or a helpful friend. And, although it goes against logic to drink water especially when your bladder is so compressed by the weight of a fully baked "bun in the oven" that you may be wearing adult diapers just in case there's any leakage, drink as much water as you possibly can. My doctor actually recommended about 120oz a day. Lastly, don't be ashamed to ask for a foot massage once in a while. Unless you've been on bed-rest or sitting at home on your butt not doing anything at all, walking anywhere with all that extra weight on your bones entitles you to some tootsie TLC.    

2. The myth of the broken water: We've all seen movies and TV shows where a woman's water breaks at the most inconvenient and often comedic time possible, but it doesn't always happen that way. In fact, it may never break on its own. I was in labor for well over 10 hours before the doctor finally broke my water to speed things along.

• Suggestion: Don't freak out! You may experience some bleeding -- cleverly called "the bloody show" -- cramping, pooping, puking, and other lovely symptoms well before your water breaks, if it breaks on its own at all. If you're really concerned, or if your water does break, make sure to go to the hospital to get checked, especially if you test positive for Group B Strep. 

3. Privacy Laws?: Your private parts will never feel private again after you've been checked, poked, prodded, and possibly had your membranes stripped. Just when you thought they took all the blood from you that they needed when they tested for STD's, your blood type, and 100 other things that might be lurking in your blood waiting to endanger your unborn child, the nurse will stab you with a giant needle that she swears can't be any smaller, draw your blood, and leave the needle in your arm just in case you need fluids or antibiotics. Not only does it suck, it hinders your movement, and won't get removed until your doctor is sure you're totally fine and ready to be discharged.

• Suggestion: Suck it up! Turn your head when they jab the needle into your arm and get ready for a panel of people looking up and at every orifice you hold sacred at regular intervals until you get your discharge papers. Not only did I pee on a nurse during the whole catheter process, I pooped on the table while pushing out the baby right in front of the nurse, the doctor that I'd just met hours before I delivered, and my horrified husband who was dutifully holding one of my completely numb legs while I was being told to bear down. He saw the poop emerge, my hemorrhoids bulge, and of course my vagina stretch to allow a hairy little head to pop out, followed by the rest of our child's slime covered body.  

4. Give me the drugs!!: I wanted a natural child birth and had even worked out a birth plan that included my wishes to avoid medication unless it was absolutely necessary. Somewhere during the wee hours of the night, after walking the halls of the hospital in more pain than I've ever experienced in my life in a successful attempt to dilate to the point where I could officially be admitted, I verbally declared myself a complete wuss and decided it was time to get an epidural. Thankfully, I was dilated just enough to go straight into the delivery room and wait just a short time for the nurse anesthetist to come in to give me the magic back juice that numbed me from the waist down. I got some pretty good sleep after that in spite of the routine checks from an endless stream of doctors and nurses.

• Suggestion: In case you haven't realized it already, giving birth is unlike anything you've ever experienced.  Therefore, try your best to keep an open mind about things throughout the process. If you walk into this thinking that your ten page, detailed birth plan must be followed to the "T", you will probably be sorely disappointed or flat out enraged. If you need the epidural, get it! You'll have plenty of time after the baby arrives to be in some significant pain. 

5. The Power Play: About 24 hours after my contractions had started, I pushed out a 6lb 11oz baby with a lot of help from the nurse (who had to tell me when the contractions were coming because I could no longer feel them, my legs, or anything else below my waist), my loving and devoted husband (who was by my side or in every place he needed to be with me every step of the way), and the doctor (who did a great job considering it was his first delivery at that hospital, he didn't seem to know where anything was, and we'd just met that day). My labia ripped and was immediately stitched up after the baby was out and before the epidural wore off. And, I held my slimy, screaming, swollen, but beautiful baby boy in my arms as soon as he emerged (basically the only thing that happened per my instructions).

• Suggestion: Cherish those moments with your baby and your partner before the epidural wears off. Those tears of pure joy will quickly change when the numbness turns to a tingle as your legs start to wake up and your who-ha realizes it is completely traumatized by this whole ordeal. Your bladder will also revive and want to empty itself, sending you wobbling to the bathroom like the Little Mermaid getting her land legs, at which point you will wish you still had that catheter in. The sting of the pee hitting your raw lady parts is rather unpleasant, as is the feeling of trying to wipe away that pee and the blood that's been storing itself in your uterus for the last nine months. Oh yeah, it was nice not getting your period all that time, wasn't it? Well, have fun bleeding for the next few weeks to make up for that. My advice: pat, DON'T WIPE! And, if you have a shower head that comes down, rinse gently with warm water as soon as you can. I've heard about rinsing with the squirt bottle offered at some hospitals, but I can't comment on its effectiveness as I couldn't bear to shower at the hospital (only really scary part of my room). 

6. The Aftermath: So after the tinkle from Hell, I waddled back to my bed, disgusted by the fact that I just realized that most of that baby weight was still lingering and I still looked very pregnant but saggier, looked over at my adorable, sleeping baby who woke up and, with a ear piercing shriek, demanded to be fed, then changed, then fed again, then changed again, and so on and so forth on into oblivion. To add insult to injury, I had one nurse tell me my nipples were too flat to breastfeed and I had to ask another (older) nurse to help me, which entailed being milked like a prized dairy cow to get a paltry amount of colostrum to come in, to rub it under the baby's nose, and tempt him into nursing. Yeah that only kind of worked and mostly it just made my nipples really sore (great, more pain!).

• Suggestion: Don't look in a mirror or weigh yourself for a while; there's just no need to put yourself through the disappointment. Bring some of your stylish maternity clothes to wear home from the hospital and just accept the fact that you may be wearing them for a few more weeks. Accept all the help you can get from anyone who offers it, especially the nurses or lactation specialists, and if you really have your heart set on breastfeeding, don't give up until you've truly tried everything (nipple shields, feeding positions, nursing pillows, regular pillows, etc.) Oh, and FYI, baby poop at this point is meconium, which basically looks like tar and is just as difficult to clean off of baby's butt...so have fun with that.  

7. Got Milk?: Some of the best advice I got from a very good friend (you know who you are *wink*wink*) was regarding the recovery process that began when I got home. At this point, I was bleeding, wincing every time I peed, sat, or moved the wrong way, my nipples hurt, and my baby had a screech like an Irish banshee that woke me like clockwork every two hours demanding sustenance...and then it happened. Just as my friend had warned me, my milk (which according to the nurses might not come in for a week or more) suddenly came in and woke me from one of my brief evening naps. You guessed it! More pain!!

• Suggestion: Get up slowly, take a deep breath, then take a warm shower. Massage your hardening breasts as much as you possibly can and then pump or nurse until your boobs feel empty again. You also may as well get used to this feeling because every time your baby is hungry, your boobs will feel like this; and, when you go without nursing or pumping for an extended period of time, your boobs will feel like this; and, if you try to ignore this feeling, your boobs will leak until you feel like you're going to drown in your own breast milk. 

8. Coitus: Here's where my mother, mother-in-law, and other maternal-type relatives should stop reading.  Yes, there is sex after baby, but you're supposed to wait six to eight weeks (*insert teenage giggle here*). Let's just say that after trying and often failing to have sex while pregnant, we didn't really have a reason not to try to have sex afterwards. And, yes, it hurts.

• Suggestion: At the risk of sounding repetitive, suck it up! and wait the six to eight weeks especially if you ripped or were cut and stitched back together. I mean really, haven't you bled enough? Only one person will really get any pleasure out of it and, let's be honest, that person did not actually give birth. Sorry little groundhog! Get back in your hole...you've still got a couple more months of winter. Plus, there's really nothing sexy about dripping breast milk pretty much everywhere.  

Finally, for the rainbows and glitter part: Your partner will forgive you for whatever obscenities you yelled at them while your hormones were raging, they'll ice their hands after feeling your vice-like grip, they'll put Neosporin on the places where your nails dug into their skin. You will thank your partner for all of their love and support, look down at your newborn in the moments when this amazing little creature is sleeping or doing something really cute (like yawning, or staring at you while you're staring at him/her) and, although I wish I could tell you that you'll forget all the pain or trauma that you just endured, you won't; but, you will do so lovingly and without blaming this tiny babe for all the trouble they've just caused you. You will probably laugh, as I often do, at the man-sized belches and sharts that come out of such a small body. And, assuming that you weren't completely traumatized by this, you will think to yourself...maybe I can do this again...one day.

• Final suggestions: Sleep while the baby is sleeping. Accept any and all help that is offered. Enjoy being a new mom!
  

Seoul Music

If there's one thing that is almost always a part of my kitchen, it's music. You can't be the child of a DJ and a music enthusiast without rocking out to tunes more often than not while cooking dinner, entertaining guests, or cleaning things up after a meal. So what would my Seoul Kitchen blog be with some mention of the music of Seoul? Now, actual music is one thing; and music that makes your soul sing is something else. This beautiful Spring season, I would like to share with you some of the songs that my soul has been singing as I walk through the streets of Seoul.

I don't have to walk very far before inspiration strikes. A new coffee shop/art bar that popped up recently is giving the street a little color...literally. The latest addition to the artwork featured in the gallery is actually a painting of Marilyn Monroe on the sidewalk outside. You have to step over her face in order to walk in. It's great!! and it was definitely a delightful surprise that brightens up an otherwise rather drab, albeit lively, side street. One look into Ms. Monroe's seductive eyes and at her inviting smile and I'm already singing, "I wanna be loved by you..."

Right now, cherry blossoms, magnolia trees, and every other kind of fragrant flower imaginable is blooming and saturating the air with the fresh smell of springtime. And to celebrate, Seoul is promoting the annual Cherry Blossom Festival everywhere! I have yet to see a single area of the city that doesn't have at least a couple of blossoms blooming somewhere. These beautiful trees completely line the streets on post and just make you want to skip along humming, "It's a beautiful day in the neighborhood..." all along the path.

Truth be told, I'm not a very big fan of flowers. I've never had a green thumb, I'm not the kind of girl who truly appreciates roses on Valentine's Day, and until recently, I wasn't likely to stop and smell anything that was growing out of dirt or near grass because it just wasn't my thing. But, for some reason, this year is different; living here has obviously brought a little extra estrogen out of me and I'm not afraid to change or ashamed to share with the world that I have a tiny tune playing in my head as I walk along not only stopping to take in a deep whiff of these wonderful weeds but sometimes snapping pictures of them too, just to brighten my day later on.

The music of Seoul is more than just the songs playing on the bus, blasting out of the nightclubs, bars, restaurants, and electronics stores, it is the chirping of twitterpated birds and the hum of every happy person walking by enjoying these lovely Spring days before the oppressive heat of Summer. Sometimes it seems that everyone is singing "Tiptoe Through the Tulips" right along with me and other days I may just be singing "Love is All Around" all by myself. Either way, I'm a happy girl surrounded by these big buildings, beautiful blooms, and the synchronized sounds of my Seoul Music.

Seoul of a Woman

I'm learning more about myself every day and I have to blame that at least in part on living and working in Seoul. For whatever reason, one of which is probably the limited communication I have with others here because of the language barrier, I am much more reflective outside of my native country than in it. I've come to define myself lately as a wife, mother/daughter/friend/sister, and teacher.

Living here has shown me that I'm much more than I thought I was, I can be more than I am, and I have to be more than I ever dreamed I could be for myself as well as others. When I arrived, I thought of myself as the kind of person who could do just about anything, but I didn't necessarily think of that as a positive thing. I considered myself a "jack of all trades and master of none". That opinion has definitely changed. I now believe that I can be and have started to be much more than that now that I've focused my efforts on one career path and have settled down with one person. Because I'm not just my own person anymore and have to think about the child growing inside of me as well as the "man/child" I call my husband -- I say that with the deepest love and adoration of his playful character -- I now know that I have to be more than a Jack and more like a Queen who rules with kindness, fairness, humility and strength over my ever evolving family.

I am a wife who often hears people say that they didn't know my husband was married or they didn't know that I was here in Korea with him. My first inclination is to be upset and wonder if he spends too much time out and about without me. But upon closer examination, the truth is that I'm the one who's usually out somewhere without him. I miss out on things he usually does because I'm at work -- a choice I've made because of my strong need for independence and an individual identity apart from "my husband's wife".

Seoul is one of those cities that really doesn't sleep; therefore, students don't think twice about scheduling English classes until 9pm on a Friday evening because they have plenty of time to go out after class. I don't share their enthusiasm or energy level, especially these days, and can seldom bring myself to venture out into the night to go anywhere but home after a long day; thus, leaving my husband to his own devices, to amuse himself with his friends, colleagues, and of course their wives while I sleep rather soundly at home without giving the situation a second thought.

But I wouldn't trade being a teacher for much of anything, especially not being a housewife. I give kudos to those who do it, but when you love what you do as much as I do, going stir crazy at home after everything is clean, tidy, and in its place is not an option. I am a teacher because I want to be, but moreover, I feel like I have to be. I don't just think that I'm pretty good at it and other things the way that I used to, I think of it as part of my nature; something that was hiding in my soul, waiting for the right time and place to emerge.

I'm proud to classify myself by these new terms and look forward to growing into them over the next year here. Seoul has brought some very special things out of my soul.

Seoul Baby #1

And now for the moment you've all been waiting for: We are pleased to announce that Seoul Baby #1 is scheduled to make his/her international debut in late August. This marks the first time in either of our families that a child has been born this far away from our home state.


Although there has been some discussion as to whether or not mother and baby will make the 15-hour trek back to the U.S. so that baby can be born on American soil, we've decided that Korean soil is just as good -- and has definitely proven itself to be fertile enough for this little family to grow.

Seoul Baby #1 will join a highly diverse pool of "new recruits" arriving this summer at the acclaimed Yongsan Garrison in Seoul, South Korea.

Stay tuned for up to due date information about our little Seoul Man or Seoul Sista.

Live from Seoul it's Saturday Night!

So this post is a little late, but should prove to be a pretty interesting one, if I do say so myself. Last weekend, my adventures in Seoul took me to the ultra-modern Blue Square Theatre to see Mama Mia! for the first time. As a theatre nerd, I am ashamed to say that I've never seen the show before; however, that didn't keep me from jamming along to all the ABBA songs and dancing with the gal-pals during the curtain call.

It was a fantastic show (in English with Korean subtitles) with everything that I've come to expect from living in Seoul. There were bright lights, loud music, flashy costumes, and of course a completely foreign cast (and by foreign I mean British -- I told you this place was totally international), which never seems to matter much here as long as the subtitle screens are working properly. The predominantly Korean audience packed the intimate theatre interior dressed to the 9's in their evening wear and my two companions and I fit right in...you know, except for being American and all.

We laughed, we sang, and after the show we went out into the crisp night air in search of a late dinner. No problem, we thought, in a city that seems to be quite lively after dark. To our dismay, many restaurants close their kitchens around 9:30 pm and only the bars are open after that. I'll begin by saying that explains a lot considering how many extremely drunk people I've seen wandering, staggering, falling, and puking about the streets, and finish by saying THAT'S INSANE!!! While I'm sure that clearing the tables of everything but glasses drives liquor and beer sales, clearly these people need food to soak up the alcohol.

As my tummy grumbled and curfew for the mommies with me grew close, we finally found a cute Spanish tapas restaurant that was still serving food and sat down in a cozy corner of the restaurant. We raved about the show, started to make plans to see another, laughed and talked about life, thoroughly enjoyed our food, then departed.

We had a wonderful Saturday night in Seoul. Maybe next time we'll even bring the hubbies along...maybe.

Seoul In Love

Recently, I read an article that discussed the challenges many expats experience when repatriating. It got me thinking about what my own experience here has been like and how I will feel when we finally return to the states. Seoul definitely isn't perfect, but of all the places we could have started this adventure, it has got to be one of the best. It also made me think about my current apprehension concerning even visiting the US during our time here.

South Korea in general has a lot to offer and Seoul is very unique in that they have a significant international population. Because of my job, I've met instructors from Canada, France, Scotland, and South Africa; and students from Brazil, Japan, and Poland, as well as many other students who've had the opportunity to travel to endless places abroad. Most any ethnic group you can think of is represented here, so you're bound to hear German, Russian, Spanish, Thai, Tagalog and various other languages in the streets giving the city a very familiar feeling especially to someone from Chicago.

The difference, however, between here and most of the major cities in the US is the safety. Crime happens everywhere, but certain crimes seem to happen less often here. As a former, avid CTA rider in Chicago, I lost track of how many times I heard about people being robbed on trains, saw people selling illegal substances at train stations, and just generally felt unsafe in my surroundings. My biggest fear here is getting squished to death during rush hour! I say that only somewhat jokingly. The reality is that I often used to wander out of work after working a ten-hour shift, hop on the red line completely exhausted, and promptly fall asleep knowing that I couldn't miss my stop because it was at the end of the line. I never felt asleep enough to where I wouldn't realize that someone was stealing my purse or shoes, but every once in a while a kind voice would strongly suggest that I at least try to keep my eyes open for my own safety.

Here, everyone falls asleep on the train. If I had a dollar for every time I saw someone tucked into their coat on an early morning train or with their head cocked back, mouth wide open on an evening train, I could retire tomorrow. Men and women alike are guilty of this behavior. It's so common that the stranger sitting right next to you will frequently doze off and nod right onto your shoulder; and partly because of space and partly because of commonness, you just allow them to have their rest until you have to get up to leave.

That is merely one example of the safety factor which appears to permeate the entire city. The streets are also typically very clean and safe, I've never heard a gunshot, most of the police carry pepper spray instead of a firearm, and safety drills and videos are a regular part of life due to the constant threat of North Korea.

Leaving here means giving up the life I've become comfortable living; and even taking a trip to the US means readjusting to the way things were and the things I don't miss about living there. It means going back to a culture that seems to have little value for the lives and safety of others. At the least, it means walking into a store or restaurant without being greeted by a gaggle of friendly voices, shopping without negotiating a fair price, leaving a store without being thanked with a kind word, a smile and a bow, or feeling obligated to tip the unpleasant waiter in a restaurant because you know that part of their attitude problem comes from being grossly underpaid.

The article made me think of one of my favorite songs from Wicked...
It well may be
That we will never meet again
In this lifetime
So let me say before we part
So much of me
Is made of what I learned from you
You'll be with me
Like a handprint on my heart
And now whatever way our stories end
I know you have re-written mine
By being my friend...

I've learned that people can be inherently good and helpful and that a sense of family, community, and belonging is still alive in other countries. Living here has given me a perspective I otherwise never would have had.

Of course, I'll leave when the time comes, but I really think I'm going to miss the friend I've made in Seoul.

Kimbap and Kimchi

Say what you want to about my new life here, but make sure you mention all the food! I feel as though many of my friends and most of my family members who have never been to Korea think that I live in a third-world country where I don't have access to basic necessities. I have to put that myth to rest and assure you all that Seoul is far from being a place that has little; it fact, it is a place that has everything!

It is true that many expats complain about the prices of most of the food in the grocery stores here because just about everything is imported. However, having base privileges allows me to purchase everything I need to cook my usual fabulous meals from this magical place called the commissary. The prices there are extremely reasonable and they carry imported and domestic items. So, if I want homemade lasagna like I did last week, I simply pick up the ingredients and fire up our easy-bake oven (appropriately named because it is the smallest oven I've ever had the pleasure of cooking in).

Recently, my interests have turned to chamchi (tuna) kimbap. This local delicacy is ideal at any time of the day. I often depend on it in the morning when I'm running from one class to the next. Many food vendors sell it right on the street...and yes, it's safe. Kimbap is also cheap and can be very tasty depending on what's in it. The roll is very similar to a Japanese maki roll and can contain a variety of ingredients including spinach, egg, tuna, ham, crab stick, pickled radish, and carrot. It's basically the Korean version of a breakfast burrito and for about a dollar, I can get one roll which will stave off hunger pains until just about lunch time. For an added treat, sometimes I bring a banana or drink a cup of coffee or red ginseng tea (another delicacy here which claims to cure cancer among other health benefits).

The only thing I have yet to get used to is kimchi. With the exception of a yummy kimchi pancake that the hubby introduced me to one night, I have not been able to get used to eating kimchi with every meal. According to the locals, it aids in digestion. Yeah, that's great! but I still know I'm eating spicy, fermented cabbage and nothing can stop me from tasting that. Perhaps one day it will grow on me.

Until then, kimbap yes! kimchi no!

Neo Seoul

Thing are changing rapidly here in Seoul...and I don't just mean the things in our area; although, that is a big part of what's changing. As with any big city, the vibe is anything but mellow and, if you're not careful, it's easy to get swept up in the hustle and bustle. In just the past few weeks, I've started working, the weather has changed dramatically, and new places have popped up all around us.

I love working, probably more than the average person and I'm not ashamed to admit it. While some would complain about the schedule I'm currently on, which includes split shifts and alternating weekends, I'm thrilled to be teaching again and thoroughly enjoy the opportunity to work with like-minded adults who seem to genuinely enjoy being here as much as I do. My students are eager to learn as was made very evident last Thursday when I ended class a mere five minutes early to ask if they had any questions regarding the lesson. Instead of saying "no" and running from the room in utter exultation, they sat and asked me what I was doing over the weekend. Of course there's no way I would admit that my teaching homies and I were going out for beer and beef, but it was nice that they cared enough to ask considering they know that I'm relatively new here; and, of course they were speaking English!! which is the point of the class. I told them that I was going to try some Korean food and maybe visit a local art gallery, then asked them for other suggestions or recommendations. It was great!

Dinner and beer with the teaching homies was actually a scheduled welcome party for some of the other new hires and me. There was definitely lots of beer and more beef than I'll probably ever admit to eating or watching someone else eat. I think we all justified it by saying that it was the end of the week and the beef was wrapped in a leaf (the traditional way to eat Korean barbecue) so it made the whole thing acceptable. I managed to maintain my composure in spite of my exhaustion after having just left work a mere thirty minutes or so before we started eating and I excused myself at a relatively reasonable hour so that I could get in at least five hours of rest before working again on Saturday.

Needless to say, Saturday night and Sunday were a complete wash because I spent them totally comatose on the couch...like so knocked out that my husband had to carry me to bed (beef and beer will do that to a body). So, we were unable to enjoy the new fall temperatures. Fall in Seoul is apparently rather pleasant; not too cold, not too hot and most importantly, the humidity is gone (yay!). The evil mosquitoes have almost all died, but those that remain are straight kamikaze. Those evil, bloodsucking little devils must know that they're on their way out so they're going for it with gusto. Somehow, I managed to get six new bites on my face and neck about a week ago after I thought I could outsmart them by pulling my covers up as close to my eyeballs as I could without suffocating myself in my sleep. I lost. They won.

The cooler temperatures have also caused a few new businesses in the area to pop up and rush to be ready to open before it gets really cold. At the bottom of our hill alone, there is one new restaurant and another shop that barely has two functioning doors right now. The rest of the place is empty, but the workers are in there every day doing something else to get it ready. The hubby and I are taking bets as to what it will be. I think it's going to be some sort of gamer cafe, and while he's excited by the idea of that being true, he's not convinced. Considering how many coffee shops and convenience stores
there are concentrated on that one corner, I really hope it's not another one of those.

So far, my impression of Seoul is that it is constantly growing and creating it's own unique identity. It is definitely far different than any other place that I've ever lived. I don't think we could have picked a better country to live in for our first time living abroad. It's pretty easy to see why the army calls this "The Assignment of Choice;" there's always something new to see and do in Seoul.  

Seoul-less

Wow! what a vacation...I mean business trip. Due to government regulations, the company I will be working for here in South Korea sent me to Guam to obtain my teaching visa. For whatever reason, Korea has this thing about having to return to your country of origin if you're hired here and since Guam is the closest U.S. territory, I was forced to spend two days on the beach while they processed the paperwork for my visa at the Korean consulate. It was money and time well spent.

First of all, I had never even thought about going to Guam ever in life; not because I didn't want to, but because I didn't know anything about it. Now that I know, I plan to make that trip at least one more time. This adorable island reminded me a lot of Jamaica with its friendly people, warm weather, and relaxing atmosphere. The tranquility was a welcome change from the noise and congestion of Seoul. Lately, the sounds of the city have interrupted much needed sleep and the traffic, both vehicle and pedestrian, has caused a significant amount of angst and irritation.  

My trip started with a leisurely train ride to the Incheon airport, which much like the Blue Line in Chicago, takes you right beneath this massive, international hub, but unlike the Blue Line, is clean and safe. Upon checking in for my flight, the sweet and accommodating clerk at the Korean Air counter asked me if I wouldn't mind sitting in business class...uh duh, of course I don't mind getting bumped up from coach for free!

What a way to start my trip! First of all, I'm pretty sure I've never been on a plane that had an upstairs and, if it did, I definitely wasn't privileged enough to sit in the upstairs area. It is an understatement to say that it was truly a treat to experience this kind of luxury. Business class on Korean Air consists of seats that recline all the way flat to a bed for maximum comfort during the flight, wine, dinner, ice cream, and more. To make things even better, I was seated in an exit row, so I had even more leg room and the seat next to me was empty. The only down side to the flight was a gentleman behind me who decided to take his shoes off; needless to say, I smelled the issue before I saw it.

I arrived at the hotel in the wee hours of the morning and settled in. What the hotel lacked in room aesthetics, it more than made up for in service and scenery. After sleeping for a few hours, I went downstairs to grab a bite to eat before heading to the Korean consulate. My complimentary breakfast was served in the hotel's only bar and grille, which was ideally located on the beach with a spectacular view of the private island just off shore, para-sailing, jet-skiing, and the evening crab races on the sand. Okay, so the crab races weren't exactly planned entertainment, but for me it's the little things that make a difference; and if Mother Nature saw fit to wake the little crabbies around dinner time so I had something to watch while I ate alone so I didn't feel so alone, then I took notice and was grateful.

Day two was much the same as day one in that there was sun, swimming, drinking and eating, but there was also the knowledge that this was my last day there. After spending the morning and early afternoon doing what I wanted to do, I made my way back to the consulate to pick up my passport with its shiny, new visa plastered inside. I was in and out and back at the bar for a late lunch (and margaritas) in no time. Apparently, margarita number two was slightly more potent than number one and I soon found myself asleep in my room (clearly I'm getting old and can't hold my liquor like I used to). I slept through dinner and spent the rest of the evening catching a few more episodes of SVU and CSI (totally appreciative of the opportunity to watch American television and not have to suffer through cheesy Korean commercials), checked out, and went back to the airport.

As I ended my Seoul-less days in paradise, I thought to myself, as cliche as it sounds, "home really is where the heart is and Seoul has really become home; and while I enjoyed my little vacation/business trip, it'll be nice to get back to my husband and my friends." Anyone can take issue with some of the not so great things about where they live, but there is definitely something in finding enough good there to miss it when you're gone. What's more, is the fact that the people here are what I missed most. Hopefully, the next time I go on such a wonderful adventure, I'll be able to take my heart(s) with me.

Earning My Seoul Patch: Part Dul (that's two in Korean!)

Our life here is almost complete. In the last couple of months, we've received our express shipment (which took a month to get here) and now the car! I successfully passed the driver's exam just in time to welcome the car to Korea and give it its first taste of Korean road. Of course with that comes Korean traffic; but, I digress. The last part of the puzzle is the "slow" shipment, which we knew would take at least two to three months to get here, and so it has.

While I was waiting for our stuff to catch up with my busy life here, I decided to get a few things done. And by a few things, I mean tons of paperwork. Nothing around here gets done without printed copies of orders, forms, powers of attorney, etc. Once you think you've filled out all the forms you need and think you have everything to do what you need to do, you sit, wait, and then fill out more forms. If I hadn't gotten used to signing my new last name before I got here, I've definitely gotten a ton of practice in by now. At this point, I just kind of make a game out of it in order to get through without pulling out my hair. It's becoming rather amusing to organize things into a perfect pile and then yell "BAM!!" and slam it down in front of the person requesting it as they ask for each piece; plus it keeps them awake. Other times, I wait until they shake their heads at me like something is missing and then I slowly pull the form out of my folder and say, "oh, oh, wait for it...wait for it...HA!! I've got that too. What else do you need?"

The most comical activity was actually trying to get my driver's license. The process included studying Korean road signs and rules of the road (all of which they break), working myself up over passing the exam, passing the exam and realizing that it w

as much easier than I thought it was going to be, and then laughing hysterically at the mandatory safety videos that followed. I suppose, in retrospect, the videos could have been useful for military personnel who are expected to drive large vehicles outside of the city or anyone who hasn't ever driven in a Michigan or Chicago winter, but this gal has seen and driven in just about everything. Bring it on!

I talk a big game right now, but the truth is that as soon as I picked up the car and hit the road, I made a beeline straight for post, gassed her up, and parked her. Truly, with the way I've seen both Koreans and Americans alike drive around here, I have no intentions of risking life, limb, and paid-off car by venturing off post. I'll just settle for being proud of myself for being legally allowed to drive around here and I'll anxiously await another major Korean holiday where the city looks like it's experiencing a mass exodus and the streets are nearly empty.

Seoul Sista

I couldn't let last night's excursion go un-blogged about. It was the first time I ventured out with a new friend sans children. Now before you start feeling sorry for me, let me just say that the hubby and I have been out with an entire group of people, none of whom have kids and had a great time. We've been out for tacos, drinks, dancing at night clubs, and recently for Bulgarian food (which I highly recommend). Let me also say that I love kids, have only ever met one in my life that I didn't like at all, and hope to have my own soon, but there's something about being out without them and being in a place where there are none around that is truly special; in an odd way, it makes you feel like even more of a grown-up to know that they can't be there.

Anyway, my new buddy and I ventured out last night without the husbands for a little grown-woman time in the city. Initially, we were in search of inexpensive wine and maybe a little dinner. What we found was ridiculously overpriced wine by the bottle at restaurants we admittedly would only go to with our husbands for a really special night out. As we were walking rather quickly away from the expensive spots and over where we knew we could find what we were looking for, we both heard an undeniably familiar noise that neither of us had heard since we arrived A Wolf Whistle! 

Now, historically speaking, those things have gotten certain people into some extremely sticky situations but for whatever reason they are still relatively popular in the states. But after a month of being here and having never heard one from a single, solitary, Korean man, I assumed that I simply did not represent the version of beauty that is appreciated in that way, in this country. Honestly, I was content to go the entire two years here without ever hearing one considering how much it made me cringe when I heard it back home. 

We immediately commented to each other that this was a truly unusual occurrence that neither of us had experienced here and laughed rather heartily about it being from an unassuming, older Korean man. I definitely think it boosted our confidence as much as it caught us off guard. 

We continued on to our destination and found the perfect place for Korean food, wine, and my first taste of soju. I'm glad I found a new friend in my fellow Seoul Sista and glad we could share that experience together if for no other reason than we have a witness to say that it actually happened. 

The Kitchens of Seoul: Part 1

It occurred to me that in a blog with the word "kitchen" in the title, it's probably a good idea to focus on some of the food here. I definitely eat and on a day like today when it's raining so hard that all I want to do is stay inside and make warm, appetizing things that I may or may not actually eat (cooking is really more cathartic for me than anything) I've decided to share a little about what's available to eat when we're out and what I cook at home. I assume that this will be one of many posts about food, so I've dubbed it "Part 1" (fancy huh!).

Let me start by assuring those who are hesitant about travelling to a country like Korea that they truly have all the comforts of home...and then some. If I stepped out my front door right now (which I won't because, again, it's still raining *sigh*) I could walk just a short distance to a McDonald's, a KFC, a Burger King, a couple of Starbucks, and other familiar restaurants with very English names. Many places, like my beloved Holly's Coffee, which serves an excellent mushroom soup and warm scone combo meal, are chains that can be found just about anywhere in the city.

For something a little more interesting than that, there's a Chinese place, a couple of small Turkish restaurants, a Korean BBQ, Italian spots, and one of my new faves, Buddha's Belly which serves very yummy Thai food and has an amazing view of a city that doesn't really have a bad view unless you're in an alley or an underpass where the homeless sleep (like any big city, they have those too). We've gone out for tacos (pork belly, beef, chicken, and fish), pizza and beer, had corn dogs at a ballpark, etc.You don't really have to be too adventurous to eat at any of these places as the menus generally have pictures and English translations of everything in any dish you choose. Best of all, the service is usually fast and courteous.

Bulgolgi is one traditional Korean dish that comes highly recommended pretty much anywhere that serves it. It appears to be very popular with Americans who are just trying Korean food for the first time and is a good introduction to this type of food. It's kind of like trying a California roll first before you tackle more traditional sushi rolls and get totally freaked out that you're eating raw fish. Bugolgi is simply beef that is marinated in a sweet sauce and usually served with onions, green peppers, bean sprouts, and clear noodles, and is usually eaten over rice. With a jar of marinade and the right meat from the grocery store here, I was able to pretty much duplicate it at home and had no complaints from the hubby when I told him we were eating leftovers the following night.

Although I wanted to take formal Korean cooking classes while I was here, I was quickly told that they no longer offered the classes on post and my best bet was to Google Korean dishes and figure it out myself at home. I did just that and found a great YouTube video blog by an adorable Korean woman by the name of Seonkyoung Longest. I recently tried out her recipe for smoked salmon rolls and absolutely loved them. I'll try to make sure to post pictures and descriptions of future attempts.

Last night we had homemade chicken fried rice.

Tonight, I'm cooking at home (duh) and we're having chicken quesadillas!

Earning My Seoul Patch

Happy anniversary to me!! I have officially been in Seoul for one month today and I really feel as though I'm well on my way to earning what I've dubbed, my Seoul Patch. This fictitious achievement that I picture looking like one of my many Girl Scout badges, means a lot to me. One of the goals on my bucket list was to live in a foreign country for a year; and now I am only eleven more months away from reaching my goal.

But living in a different country is more than just about eating, sleeping, and pooping somewhere other than where you're from, it's about absorbing as much of the culture as you can while you have the opportunity to do it. I said from the beginning that I was going to get out and do and experience as much as I can and I'm well on my way to doing just that.

My adventures over the past week or so have taken me on a long walk past some fascinating museums that I fully intend to explore the insides of very soon, to the aquarium at the CoEx mall, and to the most interactive baseball game I've ever seen.

The walk that seemed it would never end began as a simple trial run for the interview that I had the next day. In typical "me" fashion, I got lost (if you didn't know, now you know, I'm completely directionally challenged). I grossly over-complicated some very simple directions and ended up walking around for about four hours--totally safe, great exercise, highly recommend doing it on purpose. I took being totally lost in stride by sight-seeing while I wandered. I accidentally found the agricultural museum, Samsung hospital, and the Seoul Museum of Art, and the Plaza hotel among other random things in the city hall area. They were setting up for something call the Hot Festival in one of the open greens, which I didn't stay around long enough to see to completion. Although I didn't realize it until I got home, I did actually walk by the building I needed to go to the next day.

The CoEx mall is something you just have to see to believe. For my Chicago friends and family who have never been here, imagine a mall and an aquarium inside of McCormick place. This place had everything from the usual stores, restaurants, and a movie theater (appropriately name the MegaBox) to a conference center and yes, the aquarium. I mention the aquarium one because the picture of the open fridge and front loading washer is actually a fish tank and two because I initially didn't really want to go into the aquarium. Due to the steep entrance fee of about $20 per person, I told my husband that we should just skip it. He ignored me, paid the fee, and walked in. I was pleasantly surprised to see some amazing fish, sharks, stingrays, and turtles, as well as other water mammals such as beavers and otters and of course, my favorite, the penguins.

We didn't see daylight until we walked out hours later after having watched Elysium and having eaten dinner at Outback Steakhouse. Needless to say, it was an awesome date with the hubby and a much needed break from the work he was doing and training that I was doing for my new job.

Finally, this past weekend, we went to an exciting baseball game between the Nexen Heroes and the Dosan Bears. I'll admit that the most exciting part of a baseball game for me has always been the beer and hotdogs but clearly, I've never been to a sporting event in Korea! There were cheerleaders, games for the fans, a mascot hurling baseballs into the stands, song, chants, and dances, and of course beer and corndogs on a stick!! I was on full ADD overload the entire game and we had a great time.

So maybe my Seoul Patch won't be just one patch but a series of patches I earn for completing different activities. I'm pretty sure I've earned my entertainment patch and I can't wait to see what's up next.

I Got Seoul but I'm not a Soldier

It is painfully obvious at all times that I'm very much a civilian. Off post, I suppose, it is not as noticeable even though I still don't exactly blend in. But upon walking through any gate and onto post, which I do just about daily, I am immediately faced with the realization that I'm very different. My wardrobe is generally a dead giveaway that I'm not exactly there to do any sort of work. Because of the heat, I'm limited to free-flowing dresses or tanks and capris on a rotating basis until the rest of my clothes arrive. As an American, it's rather ironic that instead of my things being on a slow boat from China, as they usually are when I order something online, they are on a slow boat from the United States. At any rate, I stick out like a sore thumb pretty much everywhere I go.

I've made a little bit of a routine of trying to get out of the apartment at least once every day. Considering the fact that we live on a pretty steep hill and I am nearly a puddle on the doorstep

by the time I reach our front door at the end of the day, leaving out again is kept to a minimum; love my place, hate the hill. I don't ever feel obligated to go onto post, but I often find myself there during peak travel times for some of the soldiers who are heading to work in the morning. Yesterday morning, I amused myself with thoughts of what each soldier on the post shuttle must think I'm doing that early without children or a husband around to give me a purpose for being up and at 'em. In my ripped jean capris, bright blue t-shirt, and gym shoes, I definitely clashed with the sea of green fatigues that filled the bus.

Nonetheless, I was alert--which was more than I could say for the poor, exhausted soldier next to me who tilted his head back, dropped his mouth open, and began to snore next to me--and off to a meeting with regarding employment. My original plans to start working in a Korean school teaching English had been delayed, so I took that as an opportunity to look into other things to keep myself busy. To my sleeping seatmate's dismay, my stop came quickly. I tapped him and excused myself, then waded through the sea of soldiers and off the cool bus into the hot sun.

The meeting went well, as did my off-post excursion following that to the Cat Cafe (a must for any cat lover in Seoul), and my subsequent interview later that day--an exception to my rule about climbing the hill twice in one day, as it was necessary to change out of my casual attire into something more suitable for an interview.

I'm pleased to report that the company I interviewed for did make an offer and I'm hoping to start working very soon. If there's one thing I can say for certain about myself, it's that when I really want something, I go after it full force and I'm not likely to let a few awkward glances in my direction deter me from getting it. In this case, I love being a teacher; I'm learning more and more that it's not just something that I do, it's really who I am and I enjoy every minute of it.

I may not be a soldier, but I've got heart and determination...and now I've got a job in Seoul!

Seoul Mates

I'm falling more in love with this place by the moment...and I say moment because I feel like each part of my days here is broken up into memorable moments in time. From one to the next, things change drastically sometimes to the point where I feel like there's almost too much to report. Therefore, I won't claim to cover all the exciting details, but I'll do my best to highlight the best moments.

Shortly after finishing my last post, my husband came home unexpectedly for an extremely brief break from the exercise. Anything I planned to do for the rest of the day was of course put on the back-burner so that I could spend time with him. It was great to just hang out and do nothing with him; and by nothing I mean it's still too hot to do much of anything other than look longingly at one another from opposite ends of the couch while we watched television. With a good night's sleep, some clean clothes, and a few goodies from me in his backpack, he left early the next morning. That was enough to hold me until he gets home at the end of the week and I considered myself fortunate to get just that little bit of time with him since not all of the guys were able to make it home even for a night.

Of course though, after spending time with him, it was slightly bittersweet to start having fun and exploring again without him. Yesterday was full of all sorts of excitement that I really wished I could have shared with the hubby. I went to the outdoor pool on post again with my new buddy (and fellow JAG wife) and her kids. It was the last weekend before school started, so we assumed it would be busy. We were pleasantly surprised that it wasn't, which was great; but, without the visual overload of having tons of people to look at and avoid tripping over, it left some time for me to think about how much fun my husband would have flipping off the diving board or racing me from one end of the pool to the other. Luckily, the pool doesn't officially close for the season until after this coming weekend, so we may get to enjoy it together at least once.

After a few hours at the pool, we went our separate ways to shower, change, and rest for our evening excursion. This was my first time on the subway in Seoul and I have to say I'm very impressed. It reminds me more of the shuttles in those large, fancy airports than it does the grimy filth of the CTA in Chicago; yet another reason to like and appreciate my new surroundings. Our fancy train ride took us to the Banpo bridge where we enjoyed an amazing light and water show (see pics, but Google it because my pics don't really do it justice) complete with end-of-the-season fireworks. Talk about visual overload! There were tons of people, illuminated boats on the river, fire twirlers, and food delivery people taking orders and delivering food right to where you sat! I was amazed and overwhelmed, and again wished I could have shared all of that with my husband. Clearly I wasn't the only one thinking that because even the kids said something about their daddy missing out on it too.

My new dates/mates are pretty darn awesome, but I'm sure even they would agree that there's nothing better than sharing those moments with the men that were missing from last night.

Heart and Seoul

I have to keep reminding myself how fortunate I am to be able to make this trip with my husband, which isn't hard after hearing the stories of separation from the other wives I've met. According to one wife, this is one of those posts that many husbands in JAG choose to take for a year without their wives; consequently, there are few of us around. However, that doesn't make me miss my husband any less.

It's no big secret around here that many of the soldiers are on a military exercise, which keeps them away and pretty busy. I can't complain much because I do still get to chat with him whenever he's free, but after being separated for two months while he was here and I was back in the states, I'm really yearning for some cuddle time and a chance to get into a normal, married couple routine of some sort.  

I keep myself busy most days with learning my way around, meeting people, and taking care of necessary tasks to settle in. Today was the first day I got the nudge from the hubby to venture to places off post. I have to say that it was on my agenda but the extra push was nice. Itaewon has a lot to offer and I'm planning to offer it something back very soon--I'll keep you posted on that. 

For now, I'm going to soak up all this culture and take the advice of a Korean gentleman I met today on post while waiting for the bus. As fate would have it, he used to be a professor at Calvin College in Grand Rapids, Michigan. He spoke slowly and very articulately about how he could tell that I was very new here and how he regret that I arrived at a time of year when the weather was so uncomfortable that I couldn't fully enjoy everything Seoul had to offer. 

Then, he assured me that if I waited just a little while, the Fall would come and I would have the opportunity to experience this country to the fullest capacity allowed by a "human existence". Finally, he told me that in order to fully and completely absorb the culture, I must learn to speak the language in order to interact with native Koreans the way he had learned English to absorb the culture in America while he was teaching at Calvin. I told him that I hoped to do so; to which he replied, "it is not a matter of hope, but a matter of determination." 

And so I'm off with a heart full of determination to explore more today and maybe get lost and maybe find my way in Seoul. 

Body in Seoul

At this point, I've been in Seoul, South Korea for almost two weeks and I can honestly say that I have no idea what Korea is like. Being an army wife has its benefits, but one of those benefits is having a close network of people and a huge army post that almost prevent you from experiencing what the culture in this bustling metropolis is really like. Now, I must admit that much of my time over the last two weeks was spent overcoming a sinus infection that I developed pretty much immediately after I arrived. For the sake of creating a story, I'll start with the creation of the sinus infection and move forward.

Seoul is HOT this time of year. Not hot like back in Chicago where they tell you to check on old people and make sure your dog gets lots of water for about a week and then everyone forgets about it, but hot like that on steroids...for the whole summer. I have not taken less than two, cold showers per day the entire time I've been here. As my friends and family know well, I rarely turn the air conditioner on and absolutely never sleep with it on. Here, that's not an option. The AC was on full-blast the first couple of nights I was here, and it wasn't long before I started feeling the effects of it that prevented me from using it in the past. I coughed and hocked up the most disgusting blobs of goop I'd ever seen come out of my body, and that's putting it nicely.

However, in an attempt to enjoy those few first days, I tried to ignore what my body was doing. I spent one day pretending like I wasn't sick, followed by a day of some rest, then a day of acting normal, and a subsequent day of trying to feel well. Finally, this past Monday night, I gave up and took some over-the-counter meds to speed things along. Well, the good news is that the meds worked; the bad news is that I lost an entire day popping pills and sleeping, which brings us to today.

After over a week of discomfort, I finally felt actual relief, went out, and had fun (without hacking up a lung). I can officially say I know how to take the post shuttle, I've been to probably the best pool on post, and I've been to the mall thanks to a new buddy and fellow army wife that I had the honor of introducing myself to after a series of text messages between our very busy
husbands and us. Together, I'm hoping to discover more of what this great city and its wonderful culture have to offer, and maybe make a few more friends in the process, so I'm not just a lonely body in Seoul.